The Nostalgic Ingleside Inn, Palm Springs
by Charlie Barrett
In Palm Springs, where "the season" is winding down as the warmer temps approach I stayed at a distinctively Old California hotel recently - - Mel Haber's Ingleside Inn, located just a block off the main thoroughfare of fabled Palm Canyon Drive. Tourists flock to Palm Springs every winter season to see the sights, soak up the dry and warm climate and maybe even get a peak at a veteran Hollywood star dining at one the city's eateries.
Stars like Barry Manilow, singer Trini Lopez, actress Anne Francis, Jed Allen (of NBC's soap "Santa Barbara") and countless others have desert homes in the area. Former residents like Frank Sinatra, Dinah Shore, Bob Hope and George Montgomery all have town streets named after them. Once upon a time Palm Springs was the "in-place" for Hollywood's A-list, but that has morphed into a different kind of town these days, but it is one that still respects and pays homage to its Hollywood roots.
 The Spanish Mission-styled Ingleside Inn is a classy glimpse into historic Palm Springs, the days when movie stars like Greta Garbo, singer Lily Pons, Errol Flynn, Steve McQueen, the Andrews Sisters and Jane Wyman would flock to the desert hideaway to relax away from Hollywood. You can experience this glamour of yesteryear's Palm Springs by visiting The Ingleside Inn, with its fabulous and casually toney restaurant Melvyn's (named after owner/operator Mr. Haber of course). The Inn's bar has the best Martini in town. I saw couples dancing in the Inn's atmospheric Casablanca Lounge. Their Sunday afternoon jazz jam sessions are legendary in the area. Melvyn's eatery, which is moderately priced, is a local gathering spot for those that still appreciate classic dishes like Steak Diane (they prepare it tableside) comprising medallions of filet mignon with shallots, French mustard and red wine. The menu also has classics like Fresh Filet of Sole Piccata, Veal Oscar and Roast Rack of Lamb Bouquetiere for two -- dishes to balance with their well-rounded wine list that includes Stag's Leap Syrah. Indulge yourself - check into one of the Inn's delightful suites with their own private patio for a stay in PS you will never forget. The Ingleside Inn, 200West Ramon Rd., Palm Springs, 800-772-6655. www.inglesideinn.com
For another kind of hotel experience in Palm Springs look into the newly- renovated Palm Springs Riviera Resort & Spa (www.psriviera.com). The new owners have done a wonderful job of updating this classic mid-century 1950s resort in the heart of the city. The Riviera was featured in the 1963 movie "Palm Springs Weekend" with Connie Stevens and Troy Donahue.
The hotel has expanded its dining facilities and menu quite extensively since I had previously stayed there. The Riviera's new dining room rivals some of the most classy anywhere and the menu was quite impressive too, including such dishes as Skate Wing Piccata to Bone In New York Steak (served with Taleggio creamed spinach, sugar cured bacon combined with a crispy poached egg) to Lobster Mac & Cheese at $12 as a side dish. We enjoyed their truffle fries. Their wine list includes such high notes as Chalk Hill's "Estate' Sonoma Chardonnay to B.R. Cohn's North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon, among other rangy choices.
Beginning again in November is the renowned Fabulous Palm Springs Follies -- a visually stunning stage show comprising retired show gals and show guys from Radio City Music Hall to Vegas. Jack Benny did many of his 1930s radio shows from the Plaza Theatre, home of the PS Follies. Headliners at the Follies have included The Four Aces, Susan Anton, singer Bill Hayes (late of NBC's soap Days of Our Lives) who had a big hit in 1955 with The Ballad of Davy Crockett and Little Peggy March, who had the Number 1 1963 hit song, I Will Follow Him. The Follies "long-legged lovelies," as the hilarious and rib tickling MC Riff Markowitz refers to them, are proud to have among their number Ms. Trina Parks, who starred in the James Bond movie Diamonds are Forever. The Palm Springs Follies, The Plaza Theatre, 128 So. Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs, (760) 327-0225. See www.psfollies.com.
For more information on Palm Springs and its offerings see its visitors bureau at www.visitpalmsprings.com or call 760-778-8418.
Charlie Barrett is a Los Angeles-based media professional who has written for The Los Angeles Times, The Hollywood Reporter, Los Angeles Business Review and his radio reports on travel & dining are heard on Cable Radio Network.
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The Kimberly, NYC
Beauty, comfort and convenience
by Cynthia Tripp
 Arriving at The Kimberly, a boutique hotel located in the heart of the Midtown Manhattan off Lexington Avenue, I wondered if I had been transported to Europe. A friendly, well-appointed doorman came out to greet us and we walked onto a large oriental carpet in a beautiful marble lobby lit with electrified torcheres and chandeliers and decorated with Louis XIV chairs and marquetry furniture with ormolu mounts. In the hallways and some suites, antiques are evident mixed with chic modern designs such as small light fixtures made with Swarovski crystal. Throughout my entire stay, I was constantly surprised at the old world taste of the long-time private owners of the property and the care they have invested to insure that guests enjoy their stay.
Zipping up in the front elevator bank to our recently renovated suite on the 30th floor, I noticed a picture of the large pool at the NY Health and Racquet Club facilities nearby and discovered the use of the club is included gratis for all guests of the hotel. Once inside the room, I walked out on the balcony -- another treat that all suites have -- and gazed at the view of rooftops and neighboring buildings. Back inside again, the cocoon-like quiet of the room struck me. Double-glazed windows block the city sounds and there are few neighbors with only four suites on each floor. In addition, expensively made, heavily-lined damask roman shades and curtains and textured pile wall-to-wall carpeting provide comfort and quiet. In the bedroom, aside from first class linens, multiple pillows, a large closet with safe (in all rooms) and robes, the hotel has provided an electric shoe shiner and a hand-controlled, massage element in the bed for relaxation. Decorated in green marble, the bathroom was large with double sinks, a deep tub and dependable Neutrogena products for guests. Our lounge area had a velvet-covered couch and one of the two flat screen TVs.
 Ascending to the penthouse for a breakfast buffet, we entered a large, long window-lined room under a glass metal roof that opens to the sky in warm weather. The food and service was first class with an omelet chef working behind the bar and attentive waiters to clear tables and answer questions. The view was amazing. Too many sites to mention, a few are the East River, the iconic art-deco General Electric building and the Marriot East which used to be Sheldon Hotel where the painter, Georgia O'Keefe and photographer, Alfred Stieglitz lived.
Although the restaurant is currently used only for guests in the morning, stay tuned, it will be opening to the public soon as a restaurant/bar. There is a private party room on the other side of the penthouse that has tremendous views and is wonderfully appointed. On the first floor of the hotel The Albert Restaurant is expected to open soon.
For convenience, The Kimberly is perfectly situated for both the corporate client, next to the Midtown business district, restaurants and transportation hubs, and for the tourist, next to shopping, theater and museums in Midtown. To accommodate various clienteles, The Kimberly offers a number of different and flexible room configurations for corporate and private guests. Composed of 189 rooms, the hotel has two elevator banks. The front elevator accesses the suites and the back elevators access an eight floor separate Townhouse of single rooms ($189-545), some of which can be combined with adjoining rooms to accommodate families. Our suite was a luxury one-bedroom ($299-645) and the two-three bedroom corporate suites with bedrooms on either side of a living room and dining room range from $649-1200. All suites have kitchens with microwave and coffee makers and refrigerators.
The Kimberly
145 East 50th Street
New York, NY 10022
212-702-1600
www.kimberlyhotel.com
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SAN MIGUEL de ALLENDE
Paradise Mexican Style
by Sandi Durell
A familiar place getting some recent media attention is San Miguel de Allende, a historical City in the State of Guanajuato, Mexico. It's a small town in the mountains sitting at an altitude of 6400 feet and whenever the name is mentioned everyone seems to have a relative, neighbor, friend, or friend of a friend, who has vacationed or perhaps even lives full time in this quaint little City. Founded in 1542 by a Spanish Franciscan missionary, Fray Juan de San Miguel, it is referred to by many as a 'magical place.'
It was in the 18th Century that the heroes of the independence movement were born. Ignacio de Allende y Unzaga, a revolutionary, born on January 21, 1769, joined forces with Father Don Miguel Hidalgo leading the famous Cry of Independence speech in September 1810 and the resulting insurgency. But Spain was too strong and the patriots were defeated. Both Hidalgo and Allende, along with others, were executed, their heads hung in cages outside a Guanajuato granary. On March 8, 1826, in recognition of Allende's heroism, the state government changed the name of the town to San Miguel de Allende.
In 1926 SMA was declared a National Monument, preserving the historical aspects of the town which is why the town is free of traffic lights today. With the opening of the Instituto Allende Art School in the late 1930's, the foreign population began to grow and today retired Americans and Canadians make up much of the expat community, numbering between 2000-4000, depending upon season.
This was technically my first stay in the historical Mexican town. I say "technically" because it was almost ten years ago that a friend moved to San Miguel from New York full time and we visited. It was a short visit but I never forgot the charm of the area, keeping the thought I would return. And so it was, the opportunity arose and we spent the month of February learning about and participating in the magic.
The author at the Jardin
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Local law enforcement officer
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San Miguel is a physical daily exercise in itself with its hilly cobble-stoned streets, narrow sidewalks and winding side streets. Every turn is a discovery of interesting little shops, boutiques, jewelers and artisans¸ art galleries and restaurants. The streets are very clean as each morning shop-keepers sweep and wash the stone pavements. It is rare to see a piece of paper strewn on the streets. However, there is major street work going on throughout San Miguel as streets are being ripped open to put power lines underground. The City is undergoing modernization all the time. Crossing the street becomes an artistic endeavor as traffic usually comes to a halt to allow pedestrians the right of way. All the near traffic misses as automobiles pull up to corners, sometimes passing each other with only inches to spare, quickens the heartbeat. Don't forget, there are no traffic lights in SMA!
Walking down and around the winding streets, we wondered what could be behind some of the large old wooden Hacienda doors. We were afforded the opportunity to find out on several occasions and each time our surprise was broadened by the spectacular gardens, fountains and beautiful homes within; many with three living levels, high 14 foot ceilings, skylights and roof top gardens. True architectural wonders.
 The town is alive with the creativity of artists, writers, theatre people and musicians and includes a large population of Gringo public service groups who work tirelessly to benefit many Mexican charities. The weekly "Bible," newspaper Atencion (written in Spanish and English), lists every conceivable activity and happening. One would need an excessive number of hours or a clone in order to participate in everything. The central focus of all cultural activities is the Biblioteca, where concerts, movies, lectures and theatre abound and where the intelligencia usually hang out engaged in serious discussions on all topics.
Depending on one's lifestyle, choices are innumerable when it comes to accommodations: hotels, B &B's, apartments, villas, condos, and private homes...all available for rent. To be in the heart of it all, one would probably prefer the area known as "El Centro" where most everything is within walking distance. And if it's not, then a taxi ride can be had for 25 pesos (a little more than $2.00) to any location within the main city of San Miguel. We were quite content in our B & B Villa Mirasol Hotel on Pila Seca, recommended by a friend, well run with a courteous staff, good breakfasts, conveniently located a short 3 block walk to the Jardin the town square, around which there are many restaurants, stores and street hawkers. At the Jardin in the Plaza Principal stands the beautiful 18th Century Parroquia (Church), constructed of rose colored quarry stone. The Church bells ring each morning beginning at 6:30 a.m. and if per chance you didn't hear them, a repeat performance follows at 7:00 a.m. and during the evenings as well.
The Jardin is the place where everyone congregates (especially on weekends) to exchange information about who's doing what, where and when and with who and what's new and happening. It's also a place to sit during the day to read, talk and people watch. It's Peyton Place at its best, Mexican style! On any weekend evening there are three or four different kinds of musical groups playing and singing, people dancing in the streets, while lovers hold hands and sway to the romantic sounds, especially of the Mariachi.
Valentine's Day was celebrated with a variety of Mariachi Bands playing in front of the Parroquia in the Jardin to crowds of families.
Did you say you're looking for a variety of activities? How about brushing up on your Spanish at one of the many Spanish schools. Perhaps you're a Bridge player or would like to be…try the San Miguel Bridge Club (www.smabridge.com) located at the Hotel Real d'Minas. Many evenings can be spent attending gallery art show openings that include cocktails and more. It's also a great way to meet people.
Never having taken an art lesson, I knew this was my opportunity. Classes in Expressionist Life Drawing in Charcoal seemed a good place to begin. I had a ball and even discovered there's a little talent submerged (the operative word being little). My teacher was artist, Henry Vermillion, who has a gallery in town and is also an actor, director and set designer. The norm in SMA is the wearing of multi-creative hats! There are numerous art classes and teachers in every medium – painting, drawing, sculpture, ceramics, jewelry making. The Instituto Allende is a popular place for art and Spanish lessons, along with monthly Art Fairs. Lest I forget, there are cooking schools, yoga classes, zumba classes…you name it and it probably is happening in San Miguel. Even Arthur Murray has opened a studio with classes in Latin and Ballroom instruction! By the time I was finished going from class to class, day to day, vacation time was nearly over!
Courtyard at the Instituto Allende
Let's talk about the plethora of restaurants that fill the tiny streets. Aside from the obvious Mexican cuisine, ethnic foods prevail at every turn featuring menus sprinkled with Mexican flavorings. Some of the sought after Italian restaurants include MiVida, Vivoli, Socialitte (try to have Jorge wait on you as he's extremely friendly), Toscana and more. An extremely popular and well priced restaurant is Hecho en Mexico where an international menu of well prepared foods prevails. A sweet little luncheon place run by an Argentinean is El Tomato billed as a natural food cocina. Many of the restaurants feature outdoor dining in magical gardens of flowers, plants and fountains while the sounds of guitar or piano and romantic songs in Espanol and English enhance the flavors.
Bugambilia is a long time authentic Mexican dining experience where Chile Rellenos are the sought after specialty. Good jazz and food can be found at Tio Lucas where owner Max meets and greets his guests. It's the place for carne and the sounds of Ken Bassman, Robert Kaplan and occasionally Doc Severinsen as well. Berlin is a newcomer with an international menu and a busy bar scene.
Upscale second floor restaurant, with elevator, is the glamorous Jackie's, all in white with outdoor dining overlooking the City. It's a bit on the pricey side for San Miguel, but a nice special occasion evening. Woolie's Kaban has good food, atmosphere and on weekends is a hot spot for music and dancing. It goes without saying, that, yes, there is a Starbucks!
Good food is plentiful and delicious at Planta Baja where manager Juan is always smiling and attentive to customer needs. It is also home to three Brits called "The Literary Cabaret" who, for 16 years, have performed their brand of satirical humor of clever skits, poetry and songs featuring anything from Shakespeare to naughty Noel Coward and rock n' roll. They write their own shows which change regularly. The group includes Rick Davey (who also plays guitar), Marilyn Bullivant and Reesha Browning.
St. Paul's Church is a place for concert music with its ProMusica Series, bringing wonderful classical concerts to San Miguel. The Baroque Festival was about to begin just as we were leaving and fills many churches and other spaces with music for several days. There is also opera¸ folk and flamenco.
Curious to see theatre in SMA, we got tickets to "My Old Lady" a comedy/drama by Israel Horovitz presented at the Teatro Santa Ana at the Biblioteca. It had been getting good reviews both in print and word of mouth. It was directed by Lola Smith, a professional actress and an active member of the SMA theatre community. This show was delightfully performed by Michael Gottlieb, Siobhan Bryne and Bea Aaronson and provided many laughs along with the pathos it deserved.
The Play Readers are part of the theatre scene that performs at St. Paul's Church where rotating directors choose a play or plays that are read on book by a cast of actors, accessorized with some scenery and costuming. The evening I attended included short works by playwrights Ethan Coen from "Almost An Evening" and Will Eno, "Enter the Spokeswoman Sideways" and others. Some were funny, and I do mean laugh out loud ha-ha, others clever and somewhat silly, but all provided a good evening's entertainment. Next up is Mamet's "Speed the Plow" directed by none other than my art teacher and actor, Henry Vermilliion!
A highlight evening was spent at the Biblioteca watching an award winning documentary "In a Dream." Although a "Sold Out" sign was posted, I started speaking with a woman who, as it turned out, was the lady who curates this series called "Reel Docs." Her name is Caren Cross and with partner Jennifer Posner, have brought some remarkable documentaries to the Biblioteca. Caren advised waiting until the last minute to see if seats would become available. Luckily, more chairs were added and we sat in the first row which made the film even more engaging. The story is about mosaic artist Isaiah Zagar and his wife Julia, from Philadelphia. In the bohemian neighborhood of South Philly, 50,000 square feet of concrete have been covered with tile and mirrors, all created by Zagar who shares his torture, torment and unusual lifestyle and family with audiences around the world. Having allowed his younger son to film their day to day existence, Isaiah and Julia's love story and subsequent betrayals, including an older son's drug problems, are all captured and documented for the thousands who have viewed this remarkable film. The story can cause great discomfort at times, but we all know that's what makes great art. The realities were even clearer when Isaiah and Julia came on stage post showing, submitting themselves to audience questions and participating in a cocktail reception afterwards. It is a not-to-be missed film should one have the opportunity.
Speaking of films, there is a place called The Market Café where, approximately 15 years ago, a Frenchman named Daniel cleverly started showing films of all sorts; foreign and classics. The small room seats around 22 people who watch film DVDs on a large screen in comfortable seating and for the price of 60 pesos also receive a drink of choice (including wine, beer and margaritas) and a bag of popcorn. What a deal!
The Market Café Movie Room
Continuing excitement seemed to fill most of February as the San Miguel Writer's Conference, scheduled for five days at the Hotel Real de Minas, began on February 19th featuring keynote speaker and respected writer Barbara Kingsolver. I had ordered tickets prior and was part of the packed ballroom of 800 to hear her gentle voice explain how she found her way into writing her latest bestseller "The Lacuna." An auction preceded her speech intended to raise funds for this organization to which many local artists and shopkeepers donated their talents.
Having never experienced a bull fight, the opportunity presented a couple of days before our scheduled departure. We already had tickets to a benefit performance for Haiti, but decided to make it a donation and forego the concert for a chance to see a famous Portugal rejoneadore (a bullfighter on horseback) namely, Pablo Hermosa de Mendoza, renowned for his skill, grace, genius and beautiful horses. <>Rejoneo means using a lance and is the oldest form of bullfighting and was an activity for the nobility - the Arabs in North Africa and later the Moorish in Spain. Matadors, using capes and swords, became prominent in the early 19th century.
We made our way to the small ring, arriving on the early side to secure seats as close as we could get. Our general admission tickets entitled us to seats above the first four rows, all seats being on concrete slabs. We wound up in the 5th row and watched as the ring filled and excitement mounted. The Corrida de Toros is a happening as rejoneadores appear perhaps every three years in San Miguel. Cigarette and cigar smoke filled the air, along with cries of hawkers selling chips and hot sauce, foods of all soughts, beer, tequila, margaritas and more. People were jammed together, some on cushions others on the hard concrete. The three ladies in front of us shared some tequila, cap by cap, brought in a vitamin bottle passed between then.
Bullfighting is a gory business and not for the faint of heart. The poor bull doesn't have a chance. But it is traditional pomp and circumstance and part of a cultural harmony. After seeing three animals slaughtered, we'd had enough and left early as the crowd continued to yell "oh lay."
Cushions at the Bullfight
Rejoneadore Mendoza
Throughout our stay in SMA, I continued playing my favorite sport, tennis, at Weber's Tennis Club (red clay courts). My game of choice was mixed doubles with a lovely lady from Hungary and Texas, along with two gentlemen, one from Montreal, the other from Ottawa. We all really liked each other and made sure we played 2-3 times every week. Playing at 6400 ft. above sea level with pressurized tennis balls surely added a new spin to the game, creating interesting challenges.
The world is small as we met people who live within a five mile radius of us in the heart of Manhattan. However, the great majority of visitors and expats are from Canada, Texas, Washington State, Oregon, California with sprinklings from all over the USA.
SMA is the kind of town where total strangers stop and talk on the streets as everyone is anxious to get to know others, especially if you're a newcomer. One evening we were making our way to a restaurant when a couple (from Minnesota) started talking to us and we spent the next half hour getting to know each other, exchanging names and numbers so we'd be sure to stay in contact. Of course, this episode repeated itself several times during our stay.
In case you haven't heard, SMA attracts many ladies from the States seeking beauty ala plastic surgery and such, at a third of the cost or less. There are a few fine surgeons (trained in the best USA hospitals) but do your research and get recommendations.
A not to be missed visit is to the historic Fabrica Aurora, an old cotton mill, on the outskirts of town turned into gallery and studio space, where home furnishings, jewelry and antiques are plentiful. There are multi shops and spaces to visit, along with two delightful cafes when you get hungry.
The Old Cotton Mill at Aurora
Day trips or overnights are plentiful. We spent a wonderful day in the City of Guanajuato (it means the mountain place of frogs), a charming European style City and the capital of the State. It is a multi-colored, twisting cobblestoned wonder with a subterranean through which to drive and where visits to the Diego Rivera Museum and the Museum of Mummies can be highly enlightening. It houses the prestigious University of Guanajuato, considered Mexico's finest school for music and theater. A ride on the finicular to the very top (about 6600 ft.) is a must for 360 degree views of this beautiful and colorful City which, in 1988, was declared a World Heritage Zone by UNESCO.
The City of Guanajuato from the top
San Miguel is a favorite with retirees on fixed incomes as it provides a wonderful lifestyle at approximately one-half or less the cost of living in the States. It's not for everyone as walking and getting around can be difficult. Don't forget the altitude and the uneven terrain. Many of the locals speak English which is a plus for those who know little to no Spanish. The bottom line, however, is that if one is active, a little on the rugged, adventurous side and loves a cultured, artistic environment….this is the place for you.
Here's a quote I've heard repeated many times: "people go to Florida to die, but they come to San Miguel to live! Hasta luego amigos.
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TRAVELS WITH TRIPP
Dubai (Part III): Dubai For A Longer Stay (February 22, 2010)
by Cynthia Tripp
 In need of a change after shopping and sightseeing in greater Dubai? Head west from Dubai on the Al Barsha Road and follow the signs to the Arabian Ranches Resort to see exhibition polo. Please call ahead to get the schedule. The late day light setting on the fields on the loping horses arrayed in team colors is peaceful and polo is quite popular with the expat community.
If you are interested in driving race cars, try an appointment at the Skid School at the Autodrome. To get to the Skid School, turn off Al Barsha Road and follow directions through a complex of partially-completed buildings designed with the same concept of a luxury community built for one sport (similar to the Meydan track area). The community for car racing enthusiasts includes a large formula one racing track with villas near the track that can be purchased or rented. Currently construction activity appears to be suspended as a result of the debt crisis.
We headed down a banked road lined with brightly-colored tiled walls that apparently have to be repaired regularly because of drivers who forget they are not on the course and parked at a small building. Our instructor began our private lessons by showing us a short film on safe driving with instructions on how to hold the steering wheel for maximum flexibility of movement and the concepts of over steering and under steering to counter unsafe situations that can arise on a gravel and ice.
Then we drove out onto a practice course and got into a simulator car that rests on a metal base mounted on wheels. Each of us took turns in the drivers’ seat driving around in smaller and smaller circles at higher and higher speeds while the instructor sat in the passenger seat and raised and lowered the wheels with a hand machine remote to simulate skidding conditions and instructed each driver. So we did a lot of wheelies with screeching, black skids and smoking turns, stalled the car and then got to drive an actual race course winding in and out of cones. It was thrilling, great fun and very instructive for dealing with driving conditions in the deep snow back in New York.
I forgot to mention, if you know you are going to be in Dubai for a week or more, bring some material and items you'd like copied to Bashir in Jumeirah 1. He is a ladies tailor, does a fantastic job and his work is a deal in any currency.
For New Years Day brunch every year, we journey to a fabulous hotel in the desert called Bab Al Shams. About a fifty minute drive from center of Dubai, follow the Al Barsha Road until the Mega Ranches roundabout and then follow signs for the hotel. Although it would be wonderful to stay there, brunch is festive for a number of reasons. This year we had a little sand storm on the way even though it was sunny, but since many Landrovers and SUVs made for the Middle East have a reserve tank of gas, we knew we'd make it for lunch. In the dessert we passed wandering camels and ranches of the Bedoiun who keep their goats and camels out of the city. There is an endurance track center near Bab Al Shams. Endurance races are a popular sport to test Arabian horses’ stamina in the desert environment and vets are along the race way to make sure the horses and riders are safe. It was thrilling to see a local sheik's thirty or more horses in their blue racing colors exercising in a track near the road. After the race course, look closely in the sand dunes to the left and see a flock of white Ibex.
Dining at Bab al Shams we prefer the patio for excellent people watching from the residents lounging and swimming in the nearby infinity pool to the international and local visitors and their children. The patio is bordered by a little putting green irrigated in the sand, and this year the hotel had organized pony rides for the kids and we were entertained by a lively Egyptian duo playing Middle Eastern music. The hotel has a very large buffet with both local delicacies and international food. Inside, the hotel has every appetizer and dessert imaginable to choose from, and outside there are hot foods and lamb cooked to order on a spit.
Using Dubai as base camp, there are a number of easy choices for travel. This year we journeyed to the emirate of Abu Dhabi (no visa required) on the Sheikh Zayed Road (SZR for short) to see the Emirates Palace Hotel. The huge wealth of the Emirates, specifically Abu Dhabi, was readily apparent. If the length and height of the palace enclosures along the highway, the green irrigated fields, the new exotic buildings and the immense Sheikh Zayed Mosque didn't impress you, the Emirates Palace Hotel definitely will. A testimony to the extraordinary oil wealth of Abu Dhabi, the hotel covers an entire hillside. There are immense fountains in front of a large center staircase leading up to vaulted carport where you leave your car for a valet or go to park midst Ferraris and custom BMWs. The hotel is opulently constructed of granite, marble and gold leaf; the Christmas tree in the center rotunda seemed as tall as the one at Rockefeller Center in NYC.
We went to the hotel to see the temporary preview of the new Guggenheim Museum that is currently under construction. *Remember Tuesdays are Ladies' Day and men are not allowed into the exhibit unless you are a father holding a baby or an old man who can't walk. The Guggenheim exhibit is in a small corner of the hotel in a space constructed specifically for the show with automated glass doors and exhibition spaces. We enjoyed the show and then ate in the fabulous cafe across from the exhibit that serves to visitors sitting in large lounges under the huge canopy of the ceiling. Among the delicious snacks we ordered, the Arabic mezza was voted by the long term residents with us to be the best they’d ever had!
We walked around other parts of the hotel and gazed out on the Persian Gulf and into the multiple cases of antiquities that line some of the hotel walls and halls. All items are from one art gallery and for sale in the hotel.
Perhaps, you'd like to spend a night or two on the beach in Dibba, a couple hours drive on the east coast of Dubai to the emirate of Fujairah along the Indian Ocean (no visa necessary). There, we visited the JAL Fujairah Hotel and Spa for lunch and were impressed not only by our food, but also by the views and proximity of the beautiful white beach. Reports from friends who have stayed and used the spa have been very positive. Guest rooms are right on the water so you can sleep to the sound of the waves far from the rush of civilization.
Jordan and the incredible city from antiquity, Petra, is only a couple hours flight away, but that is for another visit to the Middle East.
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TRAVELS WITH TRIPP
A Weekend of Restaurants in Boston: Warm in Winter and Cool All Year Round
by Cynthia Tripp
February 11, 2010
Dinner Friday night Locke-Ober Café, 3 and 4 Winter Place, 617-542-1340, lockeober.com
 Locke-Ober Café, one of the oldest restaurants in Boston, dating from 1875, is a feast for the eye and for the stomach. Located at the end of a small alley off the Commons on one side and the theater area on the other, Locke-Ober Café was once a private residence and the townhouse was transformed by its three owners over time to a number of dining rooms on two floors. Although the second floor paneling and floor are new, the majority of the dining rooms are filled with rich period carved woodwork. One of the atmospheric details of the restaurant is the original neo-classical, mosaic-tiled floor in the main dining that is repeated in an oval fresco over the bar in entrance area and on the cover of the menu.
We dined in the primary dining room and were spoiled by an exceptional waiter, Brian, who not only helped us order, but served us promptly with great style and filled us in on every detail of the restaurant. Locke-Ober Café was a primarily a men's dining club until 1970. It had a woman's dining room upstairs that is now used for private parties. The old men's dining room has a large, richly carved mahogany bar with attached bar stools that swing out. On the top of the bar rest large metal plate steam dishes made by Reed and Barton with dome covers attached to pulleys. Although no longer in use, the waiters would raise the covers on weighted pulleys when they needed to serve the warm food under the covers. Apparently arrivals that did not have a designated party would pull out a seat and wait to be asked to dine with the movers and shakers of the Boston business elite.
Although the menu has some old favorites of the restaurant such as lobster Savannah, Dover Sole meuniere, Wiener Schnitzel and top cuts of beef for steak lovers, many dishes have been jazzed up to show the chef's expertise at creating new flavor experiences. Consequently, although the service has the flair and flambé of a French restaurant--steak au poivre and Baked Alaska lit up the room with flames-the duck a l'orange was prepared with red miso and sautéed spinach with garlic had a little hot pepper to spice it up. For dessert, the chef has preserved an old favorite and we indulged in a sundae of butterscotch ice cream covered with hot butterscotch sauce with toasted sugar-covered pecans all garnished with marshmallow sauce. Yummy.
That the weather was 20 degrees outside was meaningless as we got into the cab ordered at the coat check and drove back to the hotel.
Lunch at the Water Café by Wolfgang Puck at the Contemporary Museum, 100 Northern Avenue, 617-478-3100, icaboston.org
 Even on an extremely cold day, I was surprised to see from my window at the Millennium Bostonian Hotel in the historic district where I was warmed by my stoked fireplace, a sailboat race out on the wavy ocean harbor! Brrr. Those intrepid Bostonians. It was much more fun for me and my friends to watch the races from the Water Café on the main floor of the Contemporary Museum and sit right on the water with a wonderful vista of the harbor.
The café food was also a pleasant surprise with Asian/Middle Eastern derivative dishes in addition to salads and sandwiches. Daily, there is a toasted Nan-Indian bread-selection and we shared two big slices of warm nan topped with chopped mozzarella, tomato, olives. The mezza was a very spicy hummus, smooth and creamy eggplant spread garnished with big chunks of feta cheese drizzled with olive oil ready to be scooped up with toasted cheese pita bread.
After a couple hours catching up, we discovered half the museum was dismantled to make way for a new installation so we decided to browse the very well-stocked museum store and look at Valentine's Day presents, books and many other clever decorative objects.
Union Oyster House
Walking back across through the Historic District, we decided to try the Union Oyster House restaurant that is in the oldest brick structure in Boston not far from Faneuil Hall. For perspective, the harbor used to come up to the back of the restaurant. We sat in the main room and voluntarily squished four of us into a cozy, creamy-painted, leather-seated booth. The main room has low ceilings, exposed pipes and low crown moldings that extend down from the ceiling giving it a very 'old world look'. We were waited on by a ruddy-faced charming woman and indulged in a large plate of steamed mussels and coffee and wine. The garlic odor was as delicious as the mussels. Although a whole array of fresh oysters and shellfish were available, we took a pass given the weather.
Saturday night dinner at Lala Rokh on Beacon Hill, 97 MT Vernon Street, 617-720-5511 lalarohk.com *Cross streets-Mount Vernon Street and Louisburg Square in Beacon Hill
Located in a charming townhouse, Lala Rokh, offers extraordinary Persian food in a warm, romantic environment. Even with low ceilings, several different rooms offer private dining despite neighboring tables since the floors are covered with carpets and the tables with white linens to absorb sound. This is a welcome touch, one of many that help to achieve as stated on the website, "to please your soul by pleasing the senses." Having experienced Persian hospitality in college during long Sunday meals and conversation at various homes, it was wonderful again to have the tastes and a feeling of the Persian culture where people entertain 25-50 people at private homes with food based on old family recipes.
We were welcomed by the lovely proprietress, Azila-Bina Seibel, who is Persian, (mother was Azberbijanian). Her partner for the restaurant is Babak Bina. She told us the restaurant had been named after Thomas Moore's romantic poem, Lala Rokh and there is a picture of the title page of the book on the wall. It is one of many examples of art in the restaurant including historic photos of Iran and Persian miniatures from her family's collection.
Once seated, we were served Persian rice-an item not on the menu. I had asked for it when we arrived-it is one of my favorite dishes- and it was delivered without a second mention. The Persians cook rice on the bottom of the pan to produce a layer that is crunchy and crewy, and we tore off pieces to eat. Our neighbors, who were on dessert, asked what it was and decided they would order it next time they came. After an appetizer with eggplant and spices, we experienced the mixture of spices and herbs some mixed with pomegranate with roasted duck and lamb shank. The flavors that combine sweet and tart are from recipes are totally proprietary and unique. We both wished they served lunch on Sunday!
We took a cab back to the Taj, the old Ritz Carlton on Arlington Street in front of the Commons, and closed down the bar laughing with Carlos the waiter and drinking Roderer champagne in the warm, low lit paneled bar.
To work my indulgences off before lunch, I took a great core fusion class at Exhale on Arlington Street at 9:15.
Sunday brunch at Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro, 25 Charles Street, 617-723-7575, beaconhillhotel.com
Rounding out our dining experience in Boston, we arrived at BHB just in time before a young crowd streamed in around 12:00. While we waited for our table to be set in the small but comfortable bar area of the popular restaurant, we sat on a stone seat with our backs next to a warm fireplace. The restaurant's woodwork is stained a dark mahogany which with ivory walls gives the rooms a clean look. A simple menu, with egg dishes and sides and other brunch favorites, the waiter was very willing to substitute an egg white omelet for a regular one and keep the same cheddar and mushroom filling. Real butter fills the air. Each meal was served with toasted French bread and crunchy well-done home fries. It was a good start to the day and a pleasing end to a wonderful weekend in Boston in the middle of winter.
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Dubai (Part II): Shopping and sightseeing (February 8, 2010)
by Cynthia Tripp
 Dubai is unique for shopping simply because many of its malls and hotels have their own draw because of the architecture, non-related activities or location. Continuing downtown near the center of the old city, I've mentioned the incredible gold souk and you may want to add the spice souk, which is in Deira, the far side of the Creek near the Heritage Village. There you can see the crowded old souk stores, smell frankincense from Yemen, learn how to identify red saffron, smell long vanilla beans and sweet tiny dried red roses from Iran used to make rosewater. After that, you can stop by the Royal Mirage, a "one and only hotel" on the beach downtown where many luxury hotels reside, or go out to the end of the man-made Palm Jumeirah to the Atlantis Hotel for tea. There are charges for entry to the hotel and the aquarium.
Before heading to the malls if you are willing to go off the beaten track, a good selection of designer jeans, purses, t-shirts, athletic shoes, gifts and the best knock-offs in Dubai are available in Karama. We've bought a few "genuine fakes". Located in an old section of Dubai called Bur Dubai (heading west of the main center of town) the shopping is on two sides of the road in stores under covered walkways. Be prepared for the vendors to come out of their shops and tell you about their goods--they're negotiable. After Karama, you may want to shop for real brands and the most expensive Western designers such as Prada found at the Neo-Egyptian mall, Wafi.
A secret place we've discovered and gone to for years, Malange Trading, has by far the best pashminas and other tasteful Indian-wear shirts, skirts and accessories. The store is in a small mall near the Magrudy Center and across the street from The Village. May be best to call and get directions first.
 Heading further west, the big malls are located in the newer areas of Dubai, out towards the desert and Abu Dhabi. Mentioned in my first article, Mall of the Emirates is worth a visit to see the ski slope and its recreated Swiss village. For shopping, a Carrefour hyper-market on the lower floor has basically everything you can imagine at a discount, and if you missed finding a little something, the kiosks in front are filled with knock off watches and inexpensive gifts. Up one of the many escalators, the first and second floors of the mall are filled with designer stores and discount ones like Zara and Massimo Dutti, in addition to "souk" areas with luggage, food and local products such as pashminas. In a land where many women wear black long gowns, differentiation shows up in the bags they carry, their shoes, jewelry, makeup, and at home, intimate wear. So, by Western standards, stores carry purses and bags and shoes that would be considered very edgy by Western standards and there are more intimate wear stores than would ever survive in a Western mall. I also mentioned the newer and bigger Dubai Mall has a wonderful aquarium and hundreds of stores and also souk areas. It has an organic food store if you are searching for provisions.
Smaller shopping areas are located in hotels such as top luxury hotel in Dubai Burj al Arab. Shaped like a wave standing upright in the water on the beach, the hotel has a helicopter pad on the top where some great tennis players have also rallied. The hotel has refused to lower their room rates with the recession and tourists are charged approximately $50 US to enter the hotel, but are credited the entry fee against dining at one of the restaurants or purchases made at one of the stores. If you need to refresh after that visit, you can take a walk along the beautiful, white deserted beaches right in front of the hotel.
Another mall that is along the water is Markazh Jumeriah a recreation of an old souk constructed of wood with cathedral ceilings. The mall is not as much a clothing mall, but has jewelry, interior design stores and stores with a good selection of pashminas and Middle Eastern style goods. There also are pleasant little restaurants for lunch, snacks or dinner where you can sit down next to the water sheltered by palm trees or under umbrellas and rest you tired feet!
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Dubai: On the Ground (January 31, 2010)
by Cynthia Tripp
Dubai, one of the seven Arab Emirates, located in the middle of the desert bordering the Persian Gulf, is a modern-day Disneyland city where each new building is more sparkling and alluring than the last. It wasn't long ago that tourists were dying to see and experience indoor skiing at the Mall of the Emirates. In November 2008, the Dubai Mall opened its doors drawing crowds to see its huge indoor aquarium and wildlife center and huge shopping area including Bloomingdale's first offshore store. Visitors of all nationalities strained to get a good look at seals, penguins and such oddities as back lit exhibits of jelly fish, and then go shopping and have a coffee at Starbucks.
Dubai and the Gulf States can be extremely hot and humid but weather in December, January and February is perfect for visiting, cool at night with warm, dry weather during the day. Flying in around Christmas time is crowded and ticket prices are elevated, but landing in Dubai can be a real treat especially if you fly upper class Air Emirates. The airline has its own new enormous terminal decorated with among other things, a wall with a torrent of water running down, ceilings at least 75 feet high, porters, a separate carousel for arriving business and first class passengers’ baggage and cars booked gratis to transport the customer home from the flight.
On my fourth trip at Christmas this year, empty cranes around building sites attested to a slowdown in some construction as a result of the recession. Priority projects are continuing such as the financial center near the newly opened Burg Khalifa, the tallest, man-made building in the world. Opened officially January 4, 2010, it was re-named for the ruler of Abu Dhabi Sheikh Khalifa Bin-Zayed, who recently financed some of Dubai’s debts. A must see will be The Meydan Racetrack complex that Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al Maktoum, the ruler of Dubai, is having constructed. He is one if not the biggest racehorse owner in the world. Eventually destined to be a whole village complex, the racecourse is due to open with a five furlough track and a stadium seating 60,000 for the annual world's richest thoroughbred race in March 2010. The world’s richest race is now richer with a purse of $10 million raised from $6 million.
Actually, the recession has created an opportunity for the tourist because many hotels and restaurants were propelled to offer better deals, so now is a good time to visit Dubai. Unless you have only time for a day of mall-hopping and lounging at your hotel, there are several ways to get oriented to Dubai and learn about the evolution of Dubai from city of rush houses on a sand spit to a booming multicultural metropolis. You can start on the Dubai "Creek" that flows into the center of the commercial area in the older part of the city. After the main industry, pearl diving and pearl trading collapsed after natural pearl prices plummeted in the 1940s with the creation of cultured pearls, the Dubai families turned to trading gold and other commodities. To facilitate the increased trade, "The Creek", a waterway and port in from the Persian Gulf, was dug out of the sand spits and businesses sprang up around the harbor.
Although the discovery of oil changed the entire landscape and led to the commercial explosion of the past twenty years, down on "the Creek", old wooden douhs are still transporting hand-loaded goods by water to other countries such as Africa. To observe this area, ask your driver or taxi to take you to the Heritage Village on "the Creek". Watch the water traffic, dine and visit preserved residences with old wind towers built into stucco walls that provided ventilation before air conditioning. Go for a ride or watch an amphibious yellow bus that floats and motors through the water and drives up a ramp onto the land. Try some Lebanese food, wash it down with a beer and lounge under umbrellas. On the opposite side of "the Creek", The Historical Society has dioramas that depict the local life before oil money changed the entire economy. After all that culture, grab a taxi to go shop at the main Dubai gold souk (market) where a huge number of gold/jewelry shops sell gold by weight with a maker's fee. It pays to negotiate and check a few places to become familiar with prices that day.
A fun, but unusual way to see the desert and environs in Dubai is to take a hot air balloon ride, which can be booked through your hotel. Since the balloon flies on the cool morning desert breezes, generally you leave the hotel with the balloonist at 5:00 am, drive to the desert (jet lag will have you up anyway) and watch the colorful balloon being blown up as the sun rises over the desert. Up in the cool air, you can see the barren mountain faces, look out on walled-in villages dotted with white mosque minarets and fly silently over camels running in the sands as the basket is carried on the early morning winds. If you are lucky, you may come in for a surprise landing near a Bedoiun village and be treated for breakfast inside a family compound like we were. In the Bedouin tradition, the host cannot ask the name or destination of their visitor for three days. Our host was thrilled since we were four women. He couldn't get over that we were there without husbands and he had his wife come out to breakfast with us seated on a large reed mat. She had hennaed hands, an open leather face mask of the Bedouin and lovely cotton-printed sari style dress and she sat with us until the balloon pilot had to come into the compound to take us home.
Another very popular activity for new arrivals is "dune bashing" which again can be reserved in your hotel. Heading out of the city at the end of the day-timing depends on the time of the year and the sunset-you ride hardy SUVs into the dunes. After a vigorous ride up and down the dunes in the setting sun, generally accompanied with loud music that the drivers enjoy immensely, you are transported to a created "Arab village" where you can eat traditional Arab foods such as "mezza" and grilled meats on the sand on blankets or at tables in tents. There is always a camel to ride and locals to henna hands.
This article is only the tip of the dune, so come back soon for more notes on tourist activities in Dubai and the UAE soon.
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Rome: A Splendid Contradiction of Modern and Ancient
by Sandi Durell
 Christmas time in the Eternal City is especially chaotic as families from all parts of Italy and the world converge at the spiritual home of Christianity. I don't think I was prepared for the sheer numbers of people on the streets, in the restaurants and at the major sites. However, being one of them I soon had no choice but to adjust, relax and enjoy what some have called "Bella chaos." Rome is a bustling city to be savored and I soon realized that with a sense of humor and cool optimism, all would be fine.
This was a mother-daughter vacation planned several months prior as a belated birthday gift to me. My daughter, a radio personality and writer, could only get away over Christmas and New Year's. So we left the husbands, her dog, my cat and…
Buon Giorno Roma!
After an 8 hour overnight flight on Alitalia, we landed early morning at Fiumicino Airport in a light rain, spent an extra hour running back and forth between two carousels to corral our luggage and were off with car and driver to our lovely small boutique hotel off the Via Veneto. Let me be sure to mention that our driver did not get off his cell phone for even a minute while driving at top speed!
Hotel Villa Pinciana is located in a statuesque palazzo dating back to the start of the 1900's. This luxurious 25 room hotel was inaugurated in June 2009. Rooms are spacious for Italian hotels, bathrooms are marble and there's free internet service in each room. The staff is friendly and courteous giving much attention to service and breakfast (included), is served in a small tastefully decorated setting. For those seeking small luxury hotels, I would highly recommend Villa Pinciana.
 After unpacking and a short nap, we were out walking, making our way to a restaurant that had been reserved in advance for an early Christmas Eve dinner. Much to our amazement, the restaurant on via Ripetta was closed! No problem since, as we winded our way through the small cobblestoned streets, we had noticed several restaurants open and serving. We enjoyed a lovely dinner at a small ristorante/wine bar, Ad Hoc, and were asleep as soon as our heads hit the pillows.
My usual method when traveling is to get an overview of where I am and the Hop-On Hop Off bus is perfect. It was 15 years since I had last been in Rome and my daughter never. This turned out to be a smart idea, giving us the orientation we needed. In addition, I had pre-booked a series of walks and tours, another really smart idea.
 The Vatican and St. Peter's Basilica had the usual lines but even more at holiday time. However, I circumvented by going to the Vatican site online prior to the trip where I had booked reservation entry time in advance, including a guided tour. Upon arriving, we by-passed the miles of people waiting for what would be hours, walked right up to the front, showed our reservations and were ushered into the building to pick up our tickets and tour through the various rooms and Sistine Chapel. The last time I was there, much of the glorious art in the Chapel had not yet been cleaned. This was an eye opener of bright color with some of the old dirt left in place in order to see the difference. Aside from the crowds of people, this turned out to be a splendid tour. (biglietteria.musei@scv.va)
We had hired a private guide for a walking tour of the Colosseum, Forum and Palantine Hill, the House of the Vestal Virgins, Circus Maximus (remember Ben Hur?) through www.romewalks.com for more creative and in depth information of the Ancient City. We couldn't have been happier as we got to know our guide, Inga, a transplanted American gal from Michigan living in Rome for the past 10 years, fluent in Italian and having majored in Italian art and history. The spectator sport of killing became major entertainment necessitating the building of the Colosseum in A.D. 80, where 50,000 people could watch the Gladiators, lions and others fight to the death in the name of fun. Just close your eyes and suddenly it's all very real!
The following day, we continued with Inga to the other side of the Tiber River for a tour through the Jewish Ghetto, the forced home of Rome's Jewish population for 300 years in an area known as Trastevere. It reminded me of our East Village just not as ancient.
It was unique seeing Kosher Italian restaurants, a Jewish Bakery and men wearing traditional Yarmulkes. A visit to the Synagogue and Museum built in the early 1900's, where Pope John Paul III's historic visit took place, provided additional insights. Hearing the stories of Jewish persecution through the ages tears at the soul.
 We wandered on our own through Churches filled with beautiful paintings (Caravaggio, Michelangelo, Raphael) mosaic tile work, sculpture and statuary: Santa Maria Maggiore, Santa Maria del Poppolo, Church of St. Cecilia, Church of San Luigi del Francesi, Church of San Ignazio, San Clemente, Cappuccin Crypt (artistically arranged bones); the Pantheone, its dome a model for Michelangelo's dome of St. Peter's, with Bernini sculpture appearing at every turn throughout the ancient city streets.
For a day trip out of the City, albeit 13 hours total, we settled on a tour bus to Naples, a city of commerce and the birthplace of pizza, and after one short off-the bus photo op, continued to the real destination, Pompeii. Founded in 600 B.C. it was eliminated from the face of the earth in A.D. 79 by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. Pompeii holds an eeriness of life 2000 years ago as hot volcanic ash brought this thriving City to an end on August 24th. Archaeologists are still at work uncovering more ruins of Roman life where excavations began in the 1700's. So much has been unearthed giving insight into everyday life: rich and poor lived on the same streets; the rich just had fancier houses. See the fish and produce market, the bakery, the brothel, the baths, theater and temple; Houses of the Tragic Poet, the Faun, the Vetti and the ash outline of bodies at the moment they died. It's all a remarkable experience not to be missed and well worth the long day.
 
We enjoyed some very special time with a gracious and wonderful theater couple we met at a party during the summer here in New York and through the efforts of a dear friend of mine, I was put in touch with them. They arranged to take us to see a musical comedy at the Il Sistina Theater called "Aggiungi un posto a tavola" ("Add a place at the table") which continues to be revived in major cities in Italy since the 1970's. With a little insight on the theme from Viviana and Aldo, our new Italian friends, we were soon laughing along with the audience. After the show we went backstage to meet the star, Gianluca Guidi, who is not only a very fine actor but sings and sounds like Sinatra and Bennett wrapped into one. I'm already thinking of ways to bring him to New York to appear at one of our upscale night spots! We all went to a local Steak and Hamburger restaurant (they don't eat pizza and pasta every night!) where some of the cast and friends joined in for food, wine and beer, telling stories, giving more insights into theater, its politics and culture. We talked and laughed until 3:30 a.m.
Our last day, with pre-arranged mandatory reservation time, we went to the Borghese Gallery to see a fine exhibit of Caravaggio and Francis Bacon paintings, creatively hung, in the beautiful Borghese family villa which stands amongst the surrounding gardens. Each room is a masterpiece of art, furnishings and beauty.
 Since our viewing time was between 5 – 7 p.m., we had made dinner reservations in Trastevere at a recommended restaurant, "Spirito diVino." The building in which it is located is an ancient medieval house with Hebrew character carvings still visible. It has a famous history where an ancient bronze statue by Greek sculptor Lisippo (4th Cent. B.C.) was discovered in the cellar and can now be seen in the Vatican. The house was used as a synagogue, a convent, a foundry and private residence. Twelve years ago a retired Italian couple opened this little gourmet gem. He was a business man, his wife a very good cook and a scientist. They give attention to each table explaining the history, discussing the menu options and inviting their guests to walk down the stairs to partake in the history and antiquity of the cellar, now filled with
an extensive wine selection.
 Suddenly it was New Year's Eve, the evening before our departure. We opted for an early dinner near the Campo de' Fiori area where we could also do some last minute shopping in some posh boutiques, returning to our hotel early just before the pouring rain began. While we packed, we watched TV and the New Year festivities worldwide ushering in 2010, and listened to nearby firecrackers coming from the Spanish Steps.
 Up at 5:30 a.m. January 1st, we arrived at the airport around 2½ hours prior to our morning flight back to the U.S. With new tightened security, our flight did not leave on schedule but almost 2 hours later but somehow we arrived almost on time.
It was a wonderful, insightful trip with some unique experiences but as I always say when I'm back on American soil and especially in New York: there's no place like home!
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Riviera Hotel and Spa At 50....Golden Anniversary For Iconic Palm Springs Hotel
by Joel Vig
The year 1959 in America was a time of change. The country was coming to the end of an eight year presidency of Dwight Eisenhower and in November a glamorous, young successor, Senator John F. Kennedy, was elected. Both Alaska and Hawaii would gain statehood by the end of 1959. Pantyhose and the Barbie doll were introduced to the American consumer in that year, and the U.S. set off an international space age buzz with the launch of a rocket with two monkeys on board.
In Palm Springs, the buzz that year was about the Riviera, a new hotel and resort built by Irwin and Mark Schuman, the brothers who owned and ran the wildly popular Chi Chi Supper Club with its famous Starlite Room. The Starlite Room featured a roster of stars including Ella Fitzgerald, Jack Benny, the Andrews Sisters, and a wide range of vaudevillians from the sedate and proper Edgar Bergen to the provocative Gypsy Rose Lee.
Some skeptics doubted the Schuman brothers and their choice of the location at the corner of Vista Chino and North Indian Canyon Drive as being too far out of the commercial loop of downtown. But the Schuman Brothers proved them wrong with a hotel success story that is their greatest legacy in Palm Springs.
The Riviera was the first hotel in the country to be built in a wheel configuration with multiple buildings fanning out like spokes from the central courtyard. The swimming pool was built in the center of the courtyard to be a hub of recreation and social activity. The layout of the hotel with its "futuristic" and unique shape was perfectly suited to the communal mindset of the 1960's.
The hotel had its own golf course, tennis courts, and, with the brothers connections to the top headliners of the day, a cabaret called the Mediterranean Room housed in its own building. Built like a state of the art Vegas showroom, the tables were set on three tiers rising from the stage. A horseshoe shaped bar ran along the back of the upper tier. Local residents and hotel guests attended performances by orchestras led by Desi Arnez, Tommy Dorsey, and Count Basie, and star performances by Bob Hope, Raquel Welch, and Trini Lopez to name just a few. First hand accounts attest to the room's great acoustics and perfect sight lines.
According to legend, Elvis Presley made an arrangement with the hotel to use the room during off hours to rehearse music both for his live shows and for his movies. Frank Sinatra and his "Rat Pack" were regulars. Daughter Nancy Sinatra actually stayed at the hotel while filming the motorcycle film "The Wild Angels" in 1966. Sonny and Cher at the height of their fame and popularity frequented the hotel. Years later, Sonny would kick off his celebrity tennis tournament at the Riviera and even opened his namesake restaurant on the grounds of the hotel.
According to local gossip, a fight with the city over signage for this restaurant is what led Sonny to run for Mayor and opened the door for his whole political career.
With the death of the Schuman brothers, the hotel changed hands a number of times. Both the Hilton Group and the Radisson Corporation owned the hotel for a time. Many preservationists were worried that the hotel might be torn down and condos or commercial buildings would take its place. Years earlier the famed Riviera golf course had been sold off to build apartments. In 2006, the Noble House Hotels and Resorts purchased the Riviera and began a 70 million dollar renovation.
Like the title of the old Neil Sedaka song "Everything Old is New Again". The massive renovation was much more than paint and carpet, bedspreads and drapes. The bones of the hotel and its buildings remained intact but interiors were gutted and reconfigured. The result is a beautifully designed homage to the spirit and feeling of the original period combined with a sense of whimsy and high style. It is perhaps a living example of what author and designer Jonathan Adler describes in his book titled "My Prescription For Anti-Depressive Living". It is fun and hip filled with gorgeous color and bold pattern and groovy design. It has been described as a Hollywood Regency style, a kind of "Old Hollywood Glam" with a twist.
The color palette remains throughout the hotel and the 406 lavish rooms and suites. Predominant colors are warm browns, whites and creams, and a color described as "Sinatra Orange", a particularly 60's shade of burnt orange that was supposedly the favorite color of the "Chairman of the Board". Both rooms and suites have marble clad bath rooms with separate showers and tubs, state of the art electronics and internet, plasma televisions, cordless phones, and step out patios or balconies. Every guest also has the opportunity of spending the night with Marilyn Monroe as every room has a large pop art portrait of the iconic star who was often spotted at the hotel when ever she was in Palm Springs.
The original layout of the hotel had self parking between many of the buildings giving the hotel more of a motel look. These areas have now been transformed into small parks and gardens, including a special wedding garden for those wishing to have an outdoor ceremony.
The original rectangular swimming pool has been replaced with an irregularly shaped pool described as an ink blot configuration. This area, popular not only with guests but with many Palm Springs residents, has received rave reviews. Food and drink can be purchased in the intimate areas near the many fire pits and the seating near the pool. Private cabanas with large blowup photos of period bathing beauties are available for small private parties and there is the hip Bikini Bar at the far end of the pool area. Little wonder that this was chosen for the site of the Miss California Pageant.
Much to the sadness of many long time Palm Springs residents, the Mediterranean Room is no more. The building that housed it has been transformed into the SpaTerre, one of the best equipped spa facilities in the area. Beautifully designed in a color palette of aqua and brown, the space exudes a sense of peace and tranquility. The influences, in both decor and treatments, spring from Balinese, Thai, and Indonesian influences. Images from all of these areas of the Buddha are present throughout. Body wraps, facials and massages are given such exotic names as "Volcanic Earth Clay Ritual", "Javanese Royal Treatment", and "Cleopatra's Milk Ritual". Many of the treatments can be done in special double rooms for husband and wife, same sex couples, or parent and child. A complimentary fitness center with state of the art machinery adjoins the spa facility.
While walking through the spa, I could almost feel the presence of some of the performers who had played the Mediterranean Room over the years. When I told my guide, Tracey Jardin, the lovely Hawaiian woman who is the public relations manager for the Riviera, how many local people had expressed their disappointment that the show room was gone she quickly pointed out that the building was preserved and that the emergence of a reborn Mediterranean Room, at some point down the line, is not out of the realm of possibility. As she spoke these words, I couldn't help but wonder if the large iconic portraits throughout the hotel of stars like Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr. made from tiny Guatemalan silver coins were shimmering their approval of this idea.
Our lunch was in the hotel restaurant called Circa 59. If you asked Liberace to design a steak house this is probably what you would get for decor including a razzle dazzle ruby red chandelier of mammoth proportion. At the recommendation of the server I ordered the fish tacos, which were beautifully prepared and presented and delicious. The portion was just the right size. For dessert, the creme brulee was exquisite, served with tiny petit four sized cup cakes and a spun sugar basket filled with fresh orange sections. It is not surprising that the restaurant has developed a strong local following who come regularly to the hotel just for the food.
For preservationists who wish to see part of the original decor, the Grand Ballroom remains almost unchanged. The nearly 20,000 square feet space was designed as an oval configuration with a built in stage. Over the years the full range of political, sports and entertainment superstars have played that stage for social and charity events. The nine dazzling crystal chandeliers are the original lighting fixtures designed for the space.
Special events throughout the Palms Springs season attract a wide and diverse group of guests. A recent Palm Springs International Film Festival allowed hotel guests to rub shoulders with Anne Hathaway who stayed in the hotel's Presidential Suite. Modernism Week brings guests from around the world to not only tour through homes in the classic desert mid-century modern style but to stay in a hotel that is itself a temple to those style doctrines. Gay and Lesbian events are a large part of the Palm Springs social calendar and the hotel has always been one of the most popular venues for these events to be held. The close proximity to hiking trails and the aerial tram. jeep tours and hot air ballooning, museums, zoos and world class shopping attract guests of all ages and backgrounds. The only common denominator seems the wish to have a great time.
Perhaps the one consistent thing I found when speaking with long time Palm Springs residents about the Riviera is the great sense of relief that she is still around. Without exception, no one who has known her over the years even calls her the Riviera. She is known by the much more familiar nickname "the Riv", a kind of term of endearment. In a town that has often had little regard for its own history and an unofficial policy of out with the old and in with the new, it is almost miraculous that she has survived. Now, like a grand old lady of the desert, unashamed of her age but certainly not wanting to look it, she has had a fantastic facelift and is back and better than ever. This is certainly reason for celebration.
For information about the Riviera Hotel and upcoming special events, log onto www.psriviera.com or call (760) 327-8311.
Day pool
Evening pool
Watsu pool
Rm 2100 interior
Circa 59 firepit
Circa 59 day patio
Starlite lounge
Arcade vignette
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"Wanderings" with Sandi Durell
My Trip Down Memory Lane -
Collins Avenue, Miami Beach and Ocean Drive, South Beach
February 2009
“I Started Out To Go To Cuba ♫♪ I
Landed in Miami Beach. . . ♪♪♫” – Well actually I started
out on a day trip to Miami Beach in my quest to not only relive my parents’ and
grandparents’ stories about the fabulous 1950’s and 1960’s when Collins Avenue
was the most celebrated resort playground in America, but to see the
gentrification that has taken place in recent years.
First, a brief history of Miami Beach begins in 1870 when
John Lum, from New Jersey, was returning from Havana, saw what is now Miami Beach from a ship, and decided it looked like a promising place to establish a
coconut plantation. He and his son and wife tried to live in the area,
but it was primarily a swampy jungle and so they gave up and left. Southern Florida got a boost from a man named Henry Flagler who co-founded Standard Oil
with John D. Rockefeller. Despite being retired, Flagler became interested in Florida on a visit, and bought two railroads. He extended those further south than they had
previously been, reaching Miami in 1896. The area really took off based on the
efforts of a man by the name of Carl Fisher, an Indianapolis automobile baron.
Fisher acquired a substantial amount of land, formed some of the islands
which are now part of Miami Beach, including Star Island, Belle Island, and Sunset Island. The dredging also had the beneficial side effect of making Biscayne Bay suitable for recreational boating.
The ultimate purpose of Fisher's huge investment was to sell the resulting
property. He helped two Miami banker brothers, named J.E. and J.N. Lummus, set
up the first real-estate company, Ocean Beach Realty. The main portion of Miami Beach was originally a peninsula. Fisher spent many years cultivating and promoting Miami Beach as a vacationland for people from the midwest and the northeast. He built
incredible homes and hotels, and enticed his many millionaire friends to
likewise develop elegant hotels and homes. It was his money and connections
that largely were responsible for the upscale orientation that has long been a
part of Miami Beach's (and South Beach's) history.
Mega-resort complexes like the Fontainebleau and the Eden
Roc, built in the 1950’s, reigned as the leading resorts symbolizing the
glamour of Miami Beach. Legendary celebrities and entertainers filled its
nightclubs: Elvis Presley, Bob Hope, Lucille ball, Judy Garland and the
fabulous ‘Rat Pack.’
The 1970s and 1980s were a down period for Miami Beach and
especially for South Beach. In 1960, the average age of a Miami Beach resident
was 50. In 1972, the average age had increased to 65. And not only were many of
the residents fairly old, they were increasingly poor and suffering from bad
health. South Beach was in fact nick-named "God's waiting room" by
some. Crime was also rampant throughout the area. And so what was once a golden
age for the resort area declined. By the 1980s, it became clear that something
had to be done to bring back the glory days of Miami Beach. One major effort
was the replenishment of the beach itself. By 1982, Miami Beach had a
completely new beachfront. The resurrection had begun.
Fast forward to the present and the grandeur of the past is
now and then some!
Collins Avenue is alive and vibrant with the luxury of the
newly opened (November 2008) $1 billion reinvention and expansion of The
Fontainebleau Miami Beach. When hotelier Ben Novack purchased the Firestone Mansion in 1952 for $2.3 million, he envisioned the creation of one of the most
opulent and magnificent resorts in the word. . . The Fontainebleau Hotel. Today
it is replete with 17,000 sq. foot lobby, 1504 rooms and two new towers, 11
restaurants and lounges, a 40,000 sq. foot spa and dramatic oceanfront. It
still includes the legendary “Staircase to Nowhere” along with electrifying
million dollar Ai WeiWei chandeliers and magnificent art and sculpture. Lunch
at this fabulous resort was just the right choice.
Down the road is the newly transformed Eden Rock.
Originally built in 1956 with a painting of “The Rat Pack” in its lobby, it is
the recipient of a $200 million renovation still under completion, featuring
632 guest rooms as well as two new glass to ceiling oceanfront ballrooms and
rooftop terrace. It is targeting convention groups boasting a 46,000 sq. feet
of indoor meeting space and 25,000 sq. feet of outdoor meeting space. This
timeless treasure was home to many celebrities including Milton Berle, Jerry
Lewis, Nat King Cole, Frank Sinatra, Ed Sullivan and the Miss America Contests
by the pool. It’s a luxurious beachfront venue replete with the new ‘Spa of
Eden,’ restaurants and pools.
The Gansevoort Hotel was the vast 1960s building
called the Roney Plaza and is now a 334-room hotel along one edge, with large
600 sq. foot rooms, and the rest of the building reserved for condominiums. The
lobby, with a million-dollar shark tank, adds interest to the hotel’s many
public spaces. Other hangouts include the roof bar called Plunge. But the
masterstroke of the new owners was in persuading David Barton, of the eponymous
gym chain, to open a large and gorgeously designed branch in the same complex.
The Delano, a 238-room
hotel built in 1947 and named, in the patriotic spirit of that postwar time,
after President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, now boasts a $28 million renovation,
perhaps a little surreal, by hotelier Ian Schrager. It is the Stateside resort
for the St. Barts crowd. The Delano’s tower
is four-winged and is one of the tallest buildings in the area. It is the first
hotel in America with an indoor and outdoor lobby and features billowing
floor-to-ceiling curtains and whimsical furniture.
“Water Salon” - conceived by Philippe Starck as his first exercise in pool
design, features underwater classical music, a continuous waterfall and
furniture in the pool. The rooftop spa, Agua, offers a full line of
treatments. The spa has a 360-degree view of Miami Beach and is modeled on an
ancient bathhouse.
Step into the plush, revitalized, and effervescently alive Hotel
Victor, located on popular Ocean Drive in the Art Deco District,
meticulously redesigned by French designer, Jacques Garcia for a step back in
time. Still present in the lobby are some of the original lighting fixtures,
along with a wonderful photo of the original building. Hotel Victor reopened
in February 2005 and features 89 luxurious rooms and has become a favorite
among Hollywood heavy hitters including Paris Hilton, Adrienne Grainer, Sting
and Ashlee Simpson.
When my producing partner and friend, Shari Upbin and I, completed our
little Miami and South Beach hotel tour, we had to walk down the street from
the Hotel Victor to the ultra fabulous former Versace Mansion, Casa
Casuarina, to see the excitement where groups of on-lookers stood outside
taking pictures. It is an exquisitely preserved 1930’s mansion built by
architect, philanthropist, author and political reformer Alden Freeman as an
homage to the oldest existing house in the western hemisphere, the “Alcazar de
Colon” in Santo Domingo, which was home to Christopher Columbus’ son Diego in
1510. One of the Casa’s cornerstones contains original brick from the “Alcazar
de Colon.” In 1992, world renowed couturier Gianni Versace saw Casa Casuarina
for the first time. It was in great disrepair but Versace fell in love with it,
purchased it and made substantial changes to the property. In September 2000,
after Versace’s tragic death, Telecom exec Peter Loftin bought the Casa. It
has been a members-only Private Club but is now operated as a luxury boutique
hotel for discriminating visitors.
The Casa has ten suites, a high-end restaurant
and boasts the famous thousand mosaic pool where we topped off our whirlwind
day with a glass of wine and our own mini-tour of what we could see on the
lower level. The full tour of the mansion costs $50 per person and suites run
around $1000 a night, but that does include dinner!
If you’re inclined to days in the sun, miles of glorious beaches, upscale
restaurants and luxurious hotels, Miami and South Beach is the place to be. Only
3 hours flying time from New York, it is a plethora of entertainment and
activities and you’ll envision the days of yesteryear and, if you close your
eyes, even see some of the greatest entertainers of all time still roaming the
lobbies.
#
August 18, 2008
Brandywine Valley & Sweetwater Farm B&B
Our “Checking In” columnist, Ward Morehouse, recently stayed at this charming inn, nestled on 50 rolling acres of meadows midway between Philadelphia and Wilmington. The beautifully decorated rooms are located in an 1815 Georgian manor house and 7 adjacent secluded guest cottages. All have private baths and AC.
Rates start at just $135 per night (for a dormer room) and include a 3-course gourmet breakfast, served in the manor house or on the outdoor patio.
Particulars: www.sweetwaterfarmbb.com.
Ward recommends having dinner at the historic Pace One Restaurant (610-459-3702) several miles away, in Thornton.
Note: Sweetwater Farm is ideal for fall foliage visits and for its proximity to the Brandywine River Museum (www.brandywinemuseum.org), home of three generations of Wyeth paintings, and the magnificent 1,050 acre Longwood Gardens (www.longwoodgardens.org).
Longwood, formerly a historic arboretum, was purchased by Pierre S. DuPont in 1906 to save it from being sold for lumber. Today it has 11,000 different types of plants, magnificent fountains, four acres of heated greenhouses and a great gift shop and cafe.
For a free copy of TravelSmart, full of insider
tips plus ways to save money while traveling:
www.TravelSmartNewsletter.com
August 6, 2008
by Ward Morehouse III
DUNNAN'S DAILY TRAVEL TIP: Free Parking In New York City
For a limited time, if you book three nights accommodations with NYC Vacation Packages, (TravelSmart’s #1 choice for people planning a visit to New York), you’ll get free parking!
Manhattan hotel rates start at $371 per person for three nights, based on double occupancy.
This great deal is available at over 100 of Manhattan’s Central Parking Garages. When you book your hotel, you’ll get a list of garages and instructions for how to get reimbursed for the charges.
A minimum 3 nights stay is required; the maximum is 5 nights.
Move quickly. This package is good for hotel arrivals through September 28. Keep in mind it’s valid for one car per hotel room and there’s no taking the car in and out without a charge for doing so. If you arrive in a bus, truck, tank, SUV or other large vehicle, expect to be charged extra!
The Free Parking Package includes:
- Accommodations at one of 25 New York City Hotels
- All state & local hotel taxes
- Free admission to the Empire State Building Observatory or for the Rockefeller Center guided tour
- Free admission to the Metropolitan Museum of Art or the American Museum of Art of the Top of the Rock Observation Deck
- VIP invitation to the CBS Early Show
- Discounts at Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s & South Street Seaport
- Emergency Travel Assistance 24/7
- Three free issues of TravelSmart, America’s leading travel consumer publication
- A $25 discount off your next NYCvp vacation
- Optional travel insurance for only $50 per person.
Particulars: Call 1-877-NYC-TRIP or visit: www.NYCvp.com
For a free copy of TravelSmart, full of insider
tips plus ways to save money while traveling:
www.TravelSmartNewsletter.com
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